Method of making knitted fabrics



Sept. 8, 1942. R. KRETSER METHOD OF MAKING KNITTED FABRICS Filed July 31, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR. RAYMOND KR TSEE ATTORNI 7 Sept. 8, 1942. 'I RQKRETSER Q 2 9 METHOD OF MAKING KNITTED FABRICS Filed July :51, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet a INVENTOR ATTORNEY Y 24; ND mans: T BY 7 Sept. 8, .1942. 'R. KRETSER I METHOD OF MAKING KNITTED FABR ICS Filed July 31, 1940 I 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 ATTORNEY fabric produceddesignsand patterns -provide knitting methods tiplicity of individual yarns may be knitted into Patented Sept. 8, 1942 mer er) or 2,294,916 4 MAKING} xm'r'rnn FABRICS Raymond Kretser, New York, N. Y. Application July 31, 1940, Serial No. 348,754 3 Claims. (c1. 66-135) The present invention relates to methods of knitting and to the resulting products.

It is the object of the present invention to provide knitting methods wherebyvery Y extensive variety in design and pattern of knitted fabrics may be obtained. It is also the object of this invention to provide knitting methods capable of simulating in the of woven fabrics of the most complex nature It is an object of the present invention to whereby a great mula fabric by arranging one or more yarns to be each exclusively knitted by an throughout the knitting process, to form a series of walewise extending stitches from each of such yarns, in either a continuous or intermittent order, as desired.

individual needle,

- being understood that the embodiments shown chine on which the methods may be practiced; it

are intended as illustrative only, to make the principles and practice of the invention more readily comprehensible, and not as limiting the spirit and scope of the invention, in any way, to their specific details.

Inthe drawings: 1 .Fig. 1 isa plan view f the outer face of a knitted fabric ,formed in accordance with the methods of the presentinvention.

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic, enlarged, detail view of a portion of the square in Fig. 1, with the stitches shown in greatly extended form.

Fig. 3 is a schematic view of one of several sets of pattern wheels and needle separating cams which control the;needles that knit the various course-wise and Wale-wise stitches of one of the It is also an object of the present invention 20 to provide a knitting method wherein the yarns forming the series of Wale-wise running stitches are supplied from stations that'are fixed in position relative the needle cylinder, and are each wrap fed around an individual needle by a wrap finger which is fixed in position relative the feeding station and the needle cylinder.

It is another object of the present invention to provide methods for combining such wrap-fed Wale-wise stitch forming yarns with a plurality of yarns fed laterally to a multiplicity of the needles, in a normal manner, and forming series of course-wise stitches,-- to produce plaid and other designs of greater variety and complexity than hitherto possible.

- It is a further object of the present invention to provide methods whereby the various yarns incorporated into the fabric, both in a wale- 'wise and a course-wise direction are knitted in a pre-determined arrangement of stitches in the. various knitted courses of each knitting revolution, as in diagonal or zig-zag arrangement, to produce fabrics having characteristics simulating twill and herringbone, heretofore possible only in woven fabrics.

It-is a still further object of the present invention to provide knitting methods which will most economically produce fabrics having the characteristics specified, utilizing a minimum amount of yarn, and which will produce fabrics of a minimum elasticity course-wise and Wale-wise direction.

The accompanying drawings illustrate one embodiment of a fabric produced by the methods of the present invention and of a knitting ms.-

and stretchability, both in knit courses of the fabric revolution of the machine.

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary, schematic, top plan view, of a knlttingmachine for the practice of the present invention, ,illustrating the relative arrangement of pattern wheels, cams and stripers, and feeding stations for v tting and course-wise stitches, and the pattern wheel, wrap fingers and feeding stationsfor. forming the Wale-wise, wrap stitches of the fabric.

5 is a cross sectional view of the needles and associated wrap-fingers, showing their reladuring one knittin tive position prior to the commencement of the formation of wrap stitches.

Fig. 6 is a similar view of the same their position in the first step in the formation of a wrap stitch, and illustrating the manner in which the diagonally off-set end of a wrap finger wipes a yarn along one side of a knitting needle.

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Figs. 5 and 6 illustrating the second step in the formation of a wrap stitch with the wrap finger sho as havin passed the needle and assuming a position directly forwardly of it.

Fig. 8 is a view similar to that of Figs. 5, 6 and '7, illustrating the third step in the formation of a wrap stitch with the the diagonally off-set end of the wrap finger wiping the yarn along the second side of the knitting needle, on its way to return to the initial position shown in Fig. 5.

Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic'view'of a fabric illustrating a method of inlaying a thread fed from a feeding station which is stationary relative the needle cylinder, without its partaking in the formation of stitches.

said fabric outlined by the showing other face of v formed of knitted units The present invention may best be illustrated and understood by means of Figs. 2 and 3, respectively, illustratin a detailed enlargement of a fabric produced by the methods of the present invention and one arrangement of the elements of a knitting machine. for practicing such methods.

While the present invention may be practiced on any suitable type of knitting machine, it may most conveniently be practiced on a circular knitting machine, especially one in which the needle cylinder is stationary and the pattern Wheels, cams, stripers and their associated yarn feed stations are movable relative to and around the needle cylinder, such as the machine illustrated in the drawings. Such knitting machines require only the addition of. stationary, cam actuated wrap fingers of conventional construction and a plurality of associated stationary yarn feeds to function in a manner which will here-,

inafter be explained, and for which purpose I have devised apparatus which may supply as many as 300 or 400 individual stationary yarn feeds.

The knitting machine is provided with uniform conventional needles, 50,'preferably of uniform type throughout and having latches, which needles are mounted on a needle cylinder, 52, of the conventional type. or ring, 53, is provided around the needle cylinder, 52, in the conventional manner, on which are mounted a, plurality of sets or groups of pattern wheels, each set being capable of producing one knitted course during each knitting revolution of the machine. In the drawings, the number of wheels to each set is shown to be three and they are designated, respectively, as A, B and C in the order in which they knit on the machine.

As the fabric illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 is of four courses each, designated as W, X, Y and Z, the knitting machines must be provided with four sets of pattern wheels, A, Band C, and associated structures.

One or more of the pattern wheels such as A and B, are each associated with an individual striper, A and B of the conventional type having, in the illustrated embodiment, 4 striper arms, 55, and with needle positioning cams, 55, preferably of the type disclosed in my U. S. Patent No. 1,970,238. One or more of the pattern wheels in each of the four sets, such as pattern wheels C, in the illustration, is unassociated with any striper.

Each of the pattern wheels A and B is also associated with a yarn feed station A and B, respectively, supporting a plurality of yarn spools, 51, one of each of which suppliesyarn to one of striper arms, 55, in their associated striper, in the conventional-manner; said feeding stations being arranged to rotate synchronously with the annular table, 53, in a manner well known to those skilled in the art, and not thought necessary to be here shown.

Pattern wheel A and its associated cam, 56,

control the yarn supplied from station A through one of the arms of the striper, A

Pattern wheel B, and associated cam, 56, is set to control the needles whichknit yarn from station B fed by one of the arms of striper, B

Pattern wheel C is set to control the needles,

- which knit yam supplied from stationary feeds D and E and others similar to them, arranged, preferably, above the interior of the needle cyl- 7 as many as 300 or 400 such individual feeds,

A rotary annular table if desired. The yam from each of such feeds is engaged in guiding apertures, 58 (Fig. 4), in the diagonally offset ends, 59, of wrap fingers, 50, a plurality of which fingers, at least one for each needle controlled by wheel C, being pivoted in annular arrangement above the needle cylinder in position to have each wrap finger wrap a yarn around an individual needle raised to latch clearing position by pattern wheel, C, when the finger is moved outwardly past such needle and returned by conventional cams synchronized with pattern wheel C.

As shown in Figs. 3, 4, 5 and 6, pattern wheel C raises needles d and e, while simultaneously wrap fingers d and e are actuated by their respective cams to have their ends, 59, carrying yarns d and 6, respectively, moved outwardly in the direction of needles d and a, respectively. On the outward movement of wrap fingers d and e for example, the outer faces of their diagonally offset ends, 59, will trike against the needles d and e at an angle. Fingers d and e and needles d and 6 being flexible, they will both bend in opposite directions to permit fin-. gers d and 6 to pass the needles (1 and e on one side thereof, and bring threads, d and 6, each to one side-of the respective needle. On the return movement of the wrap finger d? and e", the opposite faces of their diagonal ends, 59, will strike the needles, and the wrap fingers will, therefore, pass on the opposite sides of the needles, to wrap yarn d and e, completely around the respective needles so that they will be 'engaged by the needles and beknittedinto the fabric to form loop stitches when the needles of the loop stitch and the continuation of the yarn forming it which interlocks with the stitch previously cast off from the particular needle and is folded over to form a succeeding stitch.

Viewing Fig. 2, we see, for example, that in the first or lowermost course designated as W, needle d knitted yarn, a, to form wale stitch 2W. In the second course, X, needle d knitted yarn d, to form stitch 2X, by passing a loop thereof through the loop portion of stitch 2W. The continuation of yarn d passing to the rear of the loop 2X, and enclosing between itself and the loop wales, 52 and 53. In course Y, needle d knitted yarn d, by looping yarn d, back through its own preceeding stitch 2X, to form loop stitch ZY, enclosing between such loop and the folded over continuation of yarn d, floated wale 64, from course wise stitch IZ. In the fourth other needles in the group, in accordance with a pre-determined design; the combination of the set of three pattern wheels A, B and C, complementing one another to raise all of the needles in the group, and in the entire machine,. as they move around the machine. Thus, by way of example, Fig. 2', illustrates a portionof fabric having a unit of design or pattern knit by twenty C, combined are set to knit all of the stitches.

Cams of the conventional type, which are not thought necessary to be here shown, may be provided on the machine for throwing the striper arms as, as they complete a knitting revolution around the needle cylinder, to change, when desired, the thread fed the needles controlled by the associated pattern wheel during the following revolution around the needle cylinder.

While, as has been stated,,each set of pattern wheels, A, B and C, forms a combination which must knit all of a group of contiguous needles forming a design portion or unit, the various sets of wheels need not knit the needle group according to' the same combination. Thus, while in courses W needle d knits yarn a, the same needle knits yarn d, in the following-courses X and Y,

and repeats yarn a, in course Z. This is accomplished by varying the combinations of needle raising jacks in the pattern wheels of each set so that the same needle is actuated by wheel A of the first and last sets of pattern wheels and by wheels C of the two intermediate sets of pattern wheels.

It will be readily apparent to those skilled in duce as integral,.stitch forming elements, as many as twenty-eight individual yarns. As a result, the most involved, detailed and colorful plaid and other patterns may be produced by the methods of the present invention.

In addition, variation in the locus of introduction or stitching of the individual threads in the several courses of each knitting revolution may be obtained according to a regularly repeated design, whereby simulation of woven fabric structures, such as twill or herringbone may be obtained.

These possible variations may best be comprehended by reference to Fig. 2 of the drawings.

It will be observed'that the fabric fragment illustrated is composed of eleven individual yarns;

namely, a, a and b, which are supplied from the revolving feeds and are knitted into the fabric by pattern wheels, A and B; and yarns d, e, I, g, h, i, i and k, which are wrap-fed Wale-wise intc the fabric and knitted therein by pattern wheel C.

Yarns a and b may be considered asthe background yarns and may be of the same or diflerent colors, their difierent identification merely indicating thatthe needles stitching such yarns are controlled by diii'erent pattern wheels. Each of yarns a and b may be substituted in successive knitting revolutions by any one of three other yarns by the shifting of the feeding arms, 55,

.ot the associated stripers A and B Thus, yarn a, and its substitutes, may be taken to be knitted by needles controlled by patternwheel A and yarn, b, and its substitute, as.-.

knitted by needles controlled by pattern wheel B; yarn a being substituted for yarn a, by a cam acting on the striper A associated with pattern wheel A to change the yarn fed to the needles knitted by wheel A.

It will also be observed that the fabric fragment shown, consists of three sets of four courses each, W, X, Y and Z, each course having stitches I to 20, and that each course may comprise a different combination of yarns, knitted in a different arrangement, to form a pattern.

Taking the numerals above each line in following diagrams as indicating the number and position of the needles in the series of 20, knitted by each pattern wheel, counting from left to right, and thenumerals below the line as indicating the number and position of needles in the series 0120 skipped by each wheel, the schematic representation for the combination of pattern wheel A,'which knits yarn a, for course W, will be as follows:

Knit 2 2 2 2 2 Welt 2 2 2 2 2 The schematic representation for the combination of wheel B which feeds yarn b for course W will be as follows:

Knit 1 1 2 1 Tuck 3 -'IV 2 3 The schematicrepresentation for the combination of wheel C which knits the remainder of the yarns included in course W, consisting of yarns'e, f. y. i and It, will be as follows:

- Knit 1 2 1 1 Welt 2 3 2 7 1 Course X of the first group is made up of 8 yarns consisting of a and b. e, I, i, i and they are knitted in the following order.

Yarn o--Knit "1 2 2 2 2 1 Welt 2 2 2 2 2"" Yarn b is knitted Knit 1 2 1 'iife'k 5 '1 2 "'2- The remaining yarns are knitted: Knit 2 1 2 l 'iVTt 1 3 2 a 1 Course Y of the first group comprises the background, yarns a and b. and yarns d, h and i,.and is knitted as follows:

It, and

Yam a: Knit 2 2 2 2 2 Welt 2' 2 2 -2 '2 Yam 1): Knit 1 2 2 2 Tuck- 3 6 2 2 Course Z of the first group comprises the backround yarns c and b, and vertical yarns g and a h and they appear in the fabric as follows:

Yarn a: Knit 2 2v 2 2 2 Welt 1 2 2 2 2 1 Yarn b: Knit 1 2 2 2 1 Tuck 2 22 The remaining yarns appear as follows:

Knit 2 Welt 1 '7 11 It will be observed that throughoutthe several courses the yarn knit by wheels A and C which do not form any substantial wales, are welted when not knitted; but that the yarn knitted by pattern wheel B, which is floated, frequently, in relatively long Wales, is tucked, when not knitted, so as to hold such yarn on the needles not knitted, to retain such yarn in position to be caught and interlocked between the walewise floats of the loop stitches knitted by pattern wheel Q and the loops of such stitches. Bythis means a compact, reinforced fabric is produced.

If we regard the second group of four courses we see that the knitting combinations of the pattern wheels are a repetition of the first group of four courses with the exception that in the first of the two courses, X and W, yarn a has been substituted for yarn a, which indicates that the arms of the stripers, A associated with pattern wheel A in the first two contiguous sets of pattern wheels have been thrown by a cam to feed yarn from a different spool.

Looking at the fabric from another angle, we see that in course W of the first group, the yarn a, appears in the following numbered stitches:

In course Z, yarn h appears as stitches, l, 4, 5, I2, I3, I6, I! and 20.

As to the Wale-wise loop stitches from the stationary yarn feeds; in course W, they appear as stitches 3, I, 8, II and IS; in course X, as stitches, 2, 3, I, III, II and IS; in course Y as stitches 2, 9 and ID.

It will be apparent that all the course-wise stitch forming yarns and wale-wlse stitch forming yarns are so embodied in the fabric that each of the course-wise stitch yarns and the Wale-wise stitch forming yarns are arranged in parallel lines of two stitches each extending diagonally across the fabric from course to course in each group; continuing in the same direction across the entire fabricjand providing a plaid pattern having the appearance of a woven twill.

It may also be here stated that stitches are arranged in opposed diagonal relation or zig-zag fashion, the efiect of herringbone may be obtained.

This completes the description of the methods of the present invention and of an embodiment of a fabric produced thereby.

It will be obvious to those skilled in the art that the methods described are economical to practice for the reason that each stitch of the if the lines of duced have relatively short floats of yarn and,

that these floats are interlocked at frequentintervals and that, further, these floats extend both Wale-wise and course-wise of the fabric thereby reducing to a minimum the elasticity and stretchability of the fabric in both of said directions.

It will also be apparent that the methods of the present invention may be easily and conveniently practiced on relatively simple knitting machines of the character described requiring fewer additional cam arrangements than might be necessary in methods utilizing plating and reverse plating or pile stitching, and which were heretofore used to provide a multi-color effect; and that the possibility of'variation in color or color arrangement of the resulting fabric of the present invention is far greater than that which may be obtained by the practice of the other methods heretofore in use. In addition, further variations may be effected by differences in yarn texture and, as described above, by the pattern accordingto which the yarn is laid out in the stitches of contiguous courses.

What I claim is: 1. The method of knitting a multi-yarn fabric comprising the steps of knitting each one of a plurality of yarns, each yarn being individual to a needle and beingfed exclusively to one of the needles of a multi-feed knitting machine in intermittent courses to form an intermittent series of individual loop stitches from a single yarn throughout the stitch formation, said stitches extending Wale-wise of the fabric, from each of said yarns, knitting a plurality of other yarns on a plurality of needles to form a series of coursewis'e stitches, floating the said course-wise stitch forming -yarns across the wrap stitches and floating the said wrap stitch forming yarns across the course-wise stitches in the courses where said wrap stitches are not formed.

2. The method of knitting a multi-yarn fabric of a variegated colored pattern comprising the steps of knitting each one of a plurality of yarns, each yarn being individual to a needle and being fed exclusively to one of the needles of a multifeed knitting machine, in intermittent courses to form an intermittent series of individual loop stitches from a single yarn throughout the stitch formation, said stitches extending Wale-wise of the fabric, from each of said yarns, knitting a plurality of other yarns, of different color, on a plurality of needles'to form a. series of cross-wise stitches, floating the said course wise stitch forming yarns across the wrap stitches, and floating the said wrap stitch forming yarns across the course-wise stitches in the courses where said wrap stitches are not formed.

3. In the method of knitting as claimed in claim 2, using different colored yarns for different needles to produce a variegated colored pattern fabric.

' RAYMOND KRETSER. 

